This is a set of rules that was set out by G. A.(Gaboon) Trahan. Called Cajun rules. I know of one more set of rules called the same thing or very little different. But there is enough that if you ever match under these rules, make sure you and the other handler get with the referee before the match and get everything clear. I will point out the rules that I try to get clear at the end of these rules. Word for word by Gaboon Trahan in black ink. My understanding as I was taught in Old English. One rule in green ink that I amended because two cur dogs can’t produce a draw. Neither dog can produce a contest, what a shame!

Rule 1

Size of pit, optional; to be square with sides 2 feet high, scratch line 14 feet apart.

Optional meaning larger than 16 foot square, not smaller because you wouldn’t have enough room for dogs and Handlers.

Rule 2

Referee to be chosen before the dogs are weighed in or washed and referee to conduct the contest according to these Rules and his decision is final.

Simple understanding of that rule as long as referee can and does line out, direct in sequence the procedures so as to control the contest.

Rule 3

Referee to see the dogs weighed at time agreed on and if either dog is over top weight agreed on he loses the forfeit money.

Forfeit taker has the option to not fight or renegotiate the wager because of the forfeit [example: $750 to 1,000] contest negotiations to continue as if there was no infraction or foul.

Rule 4

Parties to toss coin to see who shall wash first, each party to furnish two clean towels and a blanket.

Simple understanding. The referee should indicate to the winner of the toss to weigh his dog first. Then the loser of the toss to weigh his dog next, then to the wash tub then to the pit. (two towels, baking soda, milk and soap have been provided for each opponent for the last 30 years)

Rule 5

If requested to do so the referee shall search the person named to wash the dog and then have him bare his arm to the elbow and wash both dogs in the same warm water and rinse them each in his half of the warm clean water provided for that purpose.

Simple understanding, "if requested”. I personally wash my hands, bare my arms, if my opponent doesn’t or says I don’t have to wash my dog?? I will wash him myself.

Rule 6

As the dogs are washed clean and dried they shall be turned over to their handlers and at once taken to their corners of the pit as designated by the referee and the referee must search handlers for means of foul play and see that he bares his arms to the elbow before he receives his dog and must keep his arms bare in such a manner during the contest.

When I referee I allow the first dog to the contest to choose his corner. The rest of the rule stands as written.

Rule 7

The dog’s owner or his representative shall be allowed at all times to be near his dog and watch to see that no harm is done him, and each owner shall be allowed to name a man or himself watch his opponent’s dog and handler at all times to see he is given no unfair advantage.

Understandable.

Rule 8

Either dog’s owner, handler or watcher if he sees anything wrong must at once appeal to the referee and get his decision. And if any handler, watcher or owner violates any of these rules and thereby favors either dog the dog so favored must at once be declared the loser.

Understandable.

Rule 9

The interested parties shall choose a timekeeper at the pit side.

Understandable.

Rule 10

The dogs are placed in their corners of the pit, opposite corners, faces turned from each other and only the dog and their handlers inside the pit. Then the referee shall say, (Face your dogs) Each handler must always show his dog full head and shoulders between his legs. The referee says (Let’s go), but the handler must never push or shove their dogs and handlers shall not leave their corners until the dogs are together.

Understanding that both front feet on the scratch line to support his own weight.

RULE 11

No when one of the dogs turns his head and shoulders away from his opponent after the fight is on it is a turn, whether they are in holds or free, and the handler must claim the turn and the referee must allow the claim if he believes it is a turn or the referee must call the first fair turn he sees whether the handler claims it or not and when the referee calls a turn he shall say (Handle your dogs) and each handler must pick up his dog as soon as he can without breaking a hold. Handlers carry their dogs to their respective corners immediately on picking them up, keeping the dogs face turned away from the center of the pit. Twenty-five seconds after the dogs are carried to their corners the referee shall say (Face your dogs) Then the handlers must show their dogs head and shoulders between their legs, facing the center of the pit. The dog that turns first must scratch first. In five seconds more the referee shall say (Let’s go, then the dog that made the first tun must be turned loose by his handler and this dog must go across and mouth the other dog. If, when he is turned loose he refuses to start at once or if he stops on the way over, or if he fails to reach his opponent, he has lost the fight and the referee must declare his opponent the winner.

A handler is allowed to release his dog at any time he sees fit after the dog whose turn it is to cross has started over. He must turn him loose when the dogs touch each other.

I have found myself between two loaded guns because I didn’t specifically say "Handle your Dog when they are free of hold”. Also when people call a turn on his opponents dog that has been pushed into a turn or sling out of hold into a turn. The referee should never allow such a thing. If the referee didn’t see the turn even if both handlers agree it was a turn. The referee should not allow it. After a turn called and allowed by the referee, either handler can not handle their dog from the bottom, that is a foul. Because it is a foul to not handle the top dog. When they are free of hold. Because either dog has the right to quit, that’s what the rules are for.

The five seconds more is for the referee to make sure both dogs are ready to start not looking at some stupid unsportsman like people screaming, whistling, beating on the pitwalls to secure their bets. I said "gentlemen” so don’t make noise or bet any money because good dog people don’t want to hear it. We brought our dog to a contest not a dog fight! Spectators cannot interfere with the contest.

The dog must mouth the other dog because it is a dog fight not a ballet. A smart handler will not turn his dog loose if the dog smells, licks or humps his dog until the count is over. There is no reason for someone to ask before the contest about touch or bite because everyone assumes you brought a game dog not a curfew all do the best we can and can only expect the same from both dogs.

If a dog is taking the count and has not crossed the scratch line and is scratched upon, that handler fouled the dog taking the count. The referee should declare the dog that was taking the count the winner. Why?? Because a dog has the right to quit! That’s why we have a referee, because we have too many people that aren’t gentlemen and sports, and don’t understand what they are doing. No rule will prolong the contest unnecessarily. Unawareness, and stupidity can not prolong the contest either.

RULE 12

If neither dog has made a turn and they cease to fight after 60 seconds of no action the down dog is to scratch first, if he makes his scratch the fight is on and they shall scratch in turns until the contest is decided.

(b) If the down dog fails to scratch the other dog is to scratch to win. If he fails to scratch the contest shall be declared a draw by the referee.

(c) No handler is to handle his dog until ordered by the referee if he does, it shall be called a foul and he is to forfeit to his opponent.

(d) No flash pictures or hitting on pit side shall be allowed unless agreed upon by the two contestants.

I need to amend line (b) and when I referee I tell both parties involved that I won’t be a party to two curr dogs that won’t scratch to win. I don’t think either dog should be recognized as a bull dog in a contest that didn’t turn out as a contest. So at best, I call it no contest. If one dog tries and doesn’t make it. It’s a draw.(C)and (D) speak for themselves.

RULE 13

After the dogs are together this time either handler is allowed to pick up his dog when they are not in holds, or ordered by referee. If he tries for a pick up and either dog has a hold he must turn him loose at once. If he catches his dog up free both handlers must handle their dogs at once.

Take their dogs to their corners and proceed same as at the first turn, except this time the dog which went across before is allowed to remain in his corner while his opponent makes a scratch, or goes across, and they alternate or take it’s turn about in this manner until one of them is declared the winner under these rules. The referee pays no attention to the turn after the first scratch.

Understandable

RULE 14

If one of the dogs fangs himself, that is, if he gets his teeth hung in his own lip, his handler is allowed to unfang him. If the dogs have to be separated for this they are turned loose again, both at the same time within two feet of each other in the center of the pit.

Understandable; every show should have a pair of forceps to unfang dogs in hold.

RULE 15

No sponging shall be allowed, and no towels or anything else taken into the pit by the handlers except a bottle of drink for his dog and a fan to cool him with. The handlers must taste their dog’s drink before the referee to show that it contains no poison.

For the past 30 years I have used one bucket and two large sponges. I also give the sponge to the scratching dog first in the rotation.

RULE 16

If the handler of either dog is seen to take anything from anyone on the outside of the pit he is to lose the battle. Each party shall have the right to put a man near his opponents corner to watch the handler. Should he see the handler put anything on his dog he may appeal to the referee and if the referee finds anything on the dog he is to lose the battle.

Understandable.

RULE 17

Should either handler leave the pit with his dog before the referee renders his decision he is to lose the battle.

Understandable.

RULE 18

The handlers shall be allowed to encourage their dogs by voice or hand-clapping or snapping of their fingers, but must not touch their dog or use foul, dirty methods by saving their dogs from hard fall or keeping the other handler away from his dog, or in any other way act unfairly. The referee must decide the battle against the one who does so.

Understandable.

RULE 19

Should the police interfere the referee to name the next meeting place.....

Understandable.

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Now to point out a few things about these rules.

There has been question lately on how far out the scratch line should be from the corners. The pit should be big enough for the handler to have room to work with his dog and be able to turn around with out being over the scratch line. But the scratch line must always be 14 feet apart. Rule 11 states a dog must start at once or if he stops on the way over, he has lost. Everyone I know gives a dog the count of 20 to make his scratch, no matter how many times he stops on the way over or when he starts. It also says in rule 11 that a dog must mouth the other dog on his scratch. Then later it says a handler must turn his dog loose when dogs touch each other. You should always get it clear with the handler and the referee that a dog must bite, or touch to complete his scratch.

In rule 12 it states, the down dog to scratch after 60 seconds of no action, this is called and out of hold count. A handler should always have to ask the referee for an out of hold count. And be made clear before the match if it will be a one minute or a two minute count. And Always make it clear before the match that one dog must bite or lick, or touch the other dog with his mouth before the count can be broke.

Rule 14 a handler should always tell the referee when his dog is fang and never touch his dog until the referee tells him to do so.

Because your mind is free to condition your dog, the majority won’t ever read this, the majority will stay as they are with a false ranking and non-professional rating thinking they are above the majority. As you read on I may repeat myself many times because of the many articles I’ve written in the past. I want to help everyone develop an eye for conditioning at home. If you don’t see your dog recover at home, he won’t recover in the contest. You can bring an athlete to a contest, that won’t turn or falter, like my peers that rank as gentlemen and sportsmen. Proven professionalization, if they lose they start all over again with another dog. Most good dog men work a dog as they rest a winner.
by Robert Lemm